Saxon Land, or Germans in Romanian Mud

An excursion to Biertan, which was one of the more fascinating Saxon towns. Here we found what we found at all the Saxon Land villages we raided: another locked, gorgeous Lutheran church we couldn’t get inside to see, more mud pits, a dilapidated, abandoned winery, and another restaurant closed because of a private party,

Apparently, Biertan is home to a odd reunion every September: the German-Saxon diaspora gathers here for drunken revelry and cursing at what the Communists did to this country.

These Saxon towns are spectacular in their way: the road through each town is lined on both sides with what appear to be barns, each one connected to the next, all of them painted another bright pastel color. The inhabitants, unlike their abodes, were all rather dreary figures—dressed in the colors of mud, mainly, and violently sullen.

After Biertan, we returned to Sighisoara.

Defeated by meatballs and tuna mash, we picnicked on salami, bread, cheese, and chocolate and watched a very obscure version of MacBeth filmed in the late 70s (the heavy metal mullet on MacBeth gave that away). The intimidating visage of "Grossmutter" watched over us while we supped.

C & K